Abstract
Breaking waves come in all shapes and sizes and not all are great for surfing. Some waves are more suited for beginners, and others are extremely dangerous and only for advanced surfers. In this chapter, we explore the long-lasting question of what exactly makes waves great for surfing? We first take a detailed look into what happens to waves as they enter shallow water and start interacting with the seabed. As waves move over the seabed, they change in shape and orientation due to changes in depth. The combination of this “preconditioning” and the specific form and composition of the seabed as waves reach break point means that waves exhibit a fascinating array of breaking behaviors from gentle rollers to powerful barrels. We explore how variations in bathymetry, from regional scales to local irregularities, determine the wave quality from a surfing perspective. Finally, we examine potential threats and actions to protect wave quality. We present examples of impacts to waves due to human interventions and changing climate. A summary of conservation actions and organizations advocating for the protection of surfing waves and ecosystems is then presented.